History

An introduction to the textile tradition in Prato

13th century. The manufacturing of clothes developed in the city and in the Bisenzio Valley. The wool workers of Prato had become specialists in the use of wool and devoted themselves to the calimala art (a special process that softens and improves the appearance of cloth).

14th century Prato wool craftsmen, united by the wool guild, regulated the manufacturing and the trade of cloth through laws and statutes, that were gradually updated.
Francesco di Marco Datini
greatly boosted the Prato textile industry and trade. Through a network of his stores, the woollen cloth extended to many European countries enabling in return, the importation of valuable coloured fabrics through the same routes.

15th century Because of the commercial development begun by Datini, and the establishment of an expertise in the manufacturing of cloth, Prato flourished and enjoyed a period of comfort. During this time important works of art were commissioned to great masters such as Filippo Lippi, Giuliano da Sangallo, and Mino da Fiesole that are witness the town's cultural advancement.

16th century The "Sacco"(Sack) of 1512, a terrible pillage made by Spanish militias, gave a hard blow to the economy of Prato.

17th centuryIn spite of a growth in production techniques, especially in dyeing, this was a period of recession for wool manufacturers.

18th century The economic policy of the Granducato of Tuscany, which was then under the rule of the Lorena family, helped to improve the textile industry. The Chamber of Commerce which superseded the outdated Guilds was established. By the end of the century the first important wool factory was founded by Giovacchino Mazzoni, which produced red caps destined to Middle-Eastern markets. In 1788 the Grand Duchy established a special money prize for the number of caps sold. This was the first incentive in favour of Prato manufacturers.

19th century A learned mechanical technician, Giovan Battista Mazzoni, improved spinning machines and designed projects. Also thanks to his work, Prato starts feeling the positive effects of industrial revolution, which reach the top when, by the middle of this century, a process of regeneration cuttings taken from tailors' workshops and using knitwear and other garments comes into use. This material which comes from different parts of the world, is carefully selected and transformed in a special kind of wool, which takes the adjective of "regenerated". This wool enables the production of cheap carded cloths, often mixed with virgin wool. These products are sold all over the world and Prato textile activity steadily develops.

20th century From the Sixties, we can see a substantial renewal in machines and technologies and the use of regenerated raw-materials turns to materials of superior quality, coming directly from the garment industry.
At the same time, in the textile district of Prato an important production diversification towards high quality items, using valuable fibres (virgin wools, cashemere, silk, linen, cotton, viscose, microfibres, etc.) comes into use. Also in the area of knitwear Prato has gained a world-wide leadership. For many years, Prato textile products have been chosen by the great stylists of the "Made in Italy".
renaissance cloth
renaissance cloth






17th century cloth
17th century cloth






18th century cloth
18th century cloth







19th century cloth
19th century cloth



Museo del Tessuto

English translation by: Lorenzo Innocenti e Marzio Valdambrini (Prof. Claudio Balducci) - Istituto Tecnico Commerciale Keynes - Prato


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